The former Noma head chef discusses his upcoming restaurant
Copenhagen has become synonymous with Noma for many food lovers, but one alum of the famous restaurant is hoping to add his own place to the city’s must-try category. Matthew Orlando was head chef at René Redzepi’s food mecca for more than two years, and now is almost ready to open his new eatery, Amass. As he puts it, "I think there comes a point in every chef’s career where they want to express themselves. You cook other people’s food and you organize other people’s kitchen, and you never know what it really is like until you do it yourself."
He thinks the restaurant’s space will be an exciting part of the experience for diners. "The initial impression when you walk into the restaurant is very different than 90 percent of the restaurants right now, due to the level in which you walk into the restaurant," he says. "It’s not like you walk into the restaurant and it’s in front of you.... The building itself was a tool depot for the ship builders. So it’s very rough, rustic, industrial building. So it’s basically been stripped down, it’s a loft type space, two levels. They’re separated by only the actual level of the floors, no walls. So there’s actually multiple levels in the same room, it’s really interesting... You do not enter on the ground floor. You get a perspective of the restaurant that you normally don’t see of a restaurant."
Orlando is also is aiming to have a menu that is not quite as structured as other restaurant’s he has worked at, but with a few unique twists. "There will be a lot of stuff that you share, but there will be composed courses as well," he says. "You’ll get anywhere from eight to 10 servings, depending on what’s coming in. The products are going to determine everything; the menu is going to change often. There are some dishes you will share, some dishes you will not share. At some point maybe the diner will be forced to leave the table and then come back. Because we will have a 500-square-meter garden outside, we plan to take full advantage of it not only for the vegetables coming out of it but for the guests to experience."
And while he is not yet willing to share specific menu items, he gives hints for those who have dined with him before that "there are some dishes that I definitely know that I want to do that I have done in the past when I’ve done my own guest dinners."
For more, watch the video above, and get ready for Amass to open this coming July!
Amass serves contemporary, organic cuisine with a strict focus on locally sourced ingredients. Orlando and his team are known for their way of working with supreme produce from local farms, regional purveyors and not least their very own 800-square meter garden situated directly in front of the dining room.
At Amass the menu is ever changing and influenced not only by terroir and the weather, but also by carefully examining every ingredient and by using the techniques that pays the highest respect to each ingredient.
The historic Burmeister and Wain shipyards functions as the perfect loft-style backdrop and a fun contrast to the meticulously prepared dishes at this gourmet restaurant. Besides, guests enjoy the unobstructed harbour views of the Little Mermaid, the 736 square meter filled with natural light, and the view of all aspects of the restaurant, from the kitchen to the Private Loft Dining Room.
The restaurant has space for 70 (65 seats and 5 walk-in stools) diners and up to 16 in the Private Dining Room, located just above the main dining room.
Copenhagen Chef Matt Orlando Has Big Plans For Tackling Food Waste
Chef Matt Orlando of Copenhagen's Amass wants to address the problem of food waste. In fact, he's already started. If you've dined at his restaurant, you've probably heard from his staff -- or Orlando himself -- about which parts of your dishes came from upcycled scraps. But Orlando plans to take this passion for ameliorating waste one step further by opening a research facility dedicated to the issue.
Orlando is an American from San Diego. Having married a Danish woman with whom he’s created an award-winning restaurant, it seems unlikely he’ll return to the States any time soon. Looking at Orlando’s CV, it’s clear he’s long valued working with a specific chef over a specific location.
Before hitting Danish shores, Orlando worked in New York’s Le Bernardin, then The Fat Duck in England. It was at the latter that he met René Redzepi, a fortuitous encounter that would lead to a two-year stint as sous chef at Noma. Orlando again returned to NYC to work at Per Se, before heading back to Copenhagen in 2010 to become the first chef de cuisine at Noma. He departed and opened brainchild Amass in 2013.
In a short time, Amass received critical acclaim. Known for his new Nordic cuisine, Orlando sources largely from an on-site garden which contains 80 different plants, herbs, berries, and vegetables, or else from local farmers and foragers. But Orlando has taken that ethos of local, seasonal, and sustainable to a higher plane with his aggressive approach to food waste management. To that effect, he’s establishing a research center down the road focused on tackling this global challenge. (For perspective, the United States is estimated to throw away between 30-40% of its food supply. Although"waste" is a complex issue lacking a formal definition, thus some believe that number to be inflated.)
I dined at Orlando’s restaurant in October it was one of my most memorable meals of 2017. Bringing each course out personally, he explained how trimmings from various ingredients were morphed into new, tasty components. Like the bowl of crisps presented upon arrival, made from vegetable peelings like onion skin. After lunch, Orlando gave me a tour and filled me in on his ideas.
The Amass dining room features a graffiti wall.
When did the issue of food waste become important to you?
It was after we had been open for 6 months. We were composting for the garden and I was blown away by the amount of product that was being diverted from the garbage. It started the wheels turning, getting me thinking about all the stuff we were still tossing in the trash bin. This awareness has given us a whole new respect for the products that we are using.
What protocols do you have in place at Amass to help reduce food waste?
By far the most important protocol we have in place is the state of mind in which we work. It has become a sport in the kitchen, almost a competition, to see who can find the coolest way to upcycle the by-products we are producing. When we look at a vegetable the first thing we ask ourselves is not what should we do with this perfect carrot, but what trim will we produce and how can we process the trim from the carrot into something delicious? You have to create a culture around this way of thinking.
You mentioned during my visit that you’ve shaved waste by 75%. How did you do that?
At this point, the by-products are the main driver for our creative process. Through various processes, whether fermentation, drying, pickling, etc. we are able to upcycle the majority of our trim back into the menu. The key to this is that deliciousness and flavor are the most important factor. We will never do anything just to do it. It has to taste good or we are not going to convince anyone that this is the right thing to do.
Can you tell us a little about the research kitchen you are developing?
The research kitchen will be built to address the different by-products we are producing at Amass. We want to use it as a tool to not only find the flavor that remains in these normally discarded items, but to also unlock nutrients that remain trapped inside at a cellular level.
Will you be hiring outside Amass to staff it or will your current team work there, too?
Kim Wejendorp, who has been with me since day one and is as obsessed with creating deliciousness from our by-products will be running the research kitchen. He and I will be working together on this project. This is not a project I feel you can hire for from the outside. Like I said before, it is part of the culture. It is just as much mental as it is physical.
When do you expect it will open? Will it be for research only?
We are hoping it will open late spring/early winter in 2018. In addition to the research aspect of the kitchen, it will be used for processing all of the by-products produced at Amass. Through the processing of these different products is where we hope to discover new ideas.
Dessert modeled off s'mores.
How do you plan to use the resulting research?
We are going to set up a website where we will offer access to all the data we are collecting in regard to techniques and recipes. If we look five years down the road, I think we would like to try and create some sort of consulting platform, so we can physically go out and help people run responsible restaurants.
Do you have any tips for easy upcycling at home?
Yes! The tops of most vegetables are really delicious if sautéed and made into a pesto. Used coffee grinds are great for packing around beets and carrots then roasting them. And used tea leaves are great for infusing into a little cream and then adding that into whiskey.
When she's not in a vineyard or the ocean, Lauren Mowery covers drinks, food & adventure/luxury travel. Follow her around the world on Instagram and Twitter.
Meet the Chef Who Will Change How the World Thinks About Wasting Food
Jeremy Repanich's Most Recent Stories
The meal at Amass begins a bit unexpectedly, though maybe it shouldn&rsquot be surprising at all. Before the first course ever arrives, the diner has already ventured to a rough-hewn industrial stretch on Copenhagen&rsquos outskirts and sat down inside an old shipyard building to eat dinner surrounded by exposed concrete walls covered in elegantly rendered graffiti. The space is brutalist yet refined, softened by leather dining chairs and smoked-oak tables. Still, it&rsquos not exactly what you&rsquore accustomed to seeing in a world-renowned restaurant.
The server announces the tasting menu will start with bread, but what arrives is a bowl of large, puffy chips with dip on the side. Despite its appearance, the server assures, this is bread&mdashor, at least, it was bread. The restaurant&rsquos day-old, house-made bread has been soaked, pureed, mixed with tapioca, flattened, dried and then fried to a crisp. It&rsquos delicious. And this quirky bit of alchemy is revelatory.
Restaurants churn out food waste every day. And at most places, leftovers get tossed in the garbage or compost heap. At best, day-old bread is turned into croutons. Chef-owner Matt Orlando has made it his mission to do better. In addition to leading Amass to reduce its carbon footprint, curtail water usage and become a leader in sustainability, Orlando has pushed his staff to see food by-products not as waste but as a valuable supply of ingredients that can spark creativity. And from the test kitchen he&rsquos opened&mdashnot to create new dishes but to invent new sustainable processes&mdashhe&rsquos poised to spread his message that eco-friendly food can be enjoyable too.
Before Amass, the California-born-and-bred Orlando had worked his way through some of the world&rsquos best kitchens, with stints at Per Se, Le Bernardin and the Fat Duck, eventually becoming the chef de cuisine at Noma in Copenhagen. In 2013, he ventured out on his own, opening Amass in a place that had remained mostly fallow since the Burmeister & Wain shipyard closed in 1996. Orlando had grown to love the city but wanted to serve food a little bolder and richer than the New Nordic cuisine dominating the scene. He didn&rsquot set out to create a culture of sustainability and eco-consciousness. &ldquoWe definitely opened Amass with a mind-set that is no different than any other restaurant,&rdquo Orlando says. It wouldn&rsquot take long for that outlook to change.
Six months on, Orlando tucked Amass in for a brief winter hibernation, giving himself time to step back from the daily grind. He realized he wanted Amass to stand for something more than a world-class meal: He wanted it to become a sustainable restaurant. As the vacation ended, he regathered his team and challenged them to change their ways. Could they reduce their food waste, carbon footprint and water usage while still serving high-level food?
Orlando at work in the Amass kitchen Cory Smith
The surfeit of spent coffee grounds became the early nemesis. &ldquoWe came across a fact that made us go, &lsquoWow,&rsquo &rdquo Orlando says. His team learned that, if you brew all the coffee beans you buy, you&rsquore still using less than one percent of the nutrients. &ldquoThe beans that have gone through growing, transportation from Africa or South America, roasting, transportation again to get to you, and brewing&mdashwe throw away 99 percent of it.&rdquo
In a corner of the restaurant&rsquos kitchen, Orlando and his chefs became obsessed with turning the grounds into something tasty enough to incorporate into new dishes. They transformed spent coffee into crackers and brownies, brewed it into beers, ground it into flour to bake into bread, fermented it like miso&mdashand more.
&ldquoWe made a lavender, black bean and coffee miso that blew my mind,&rdquo Orlando says. &ldquoCoffee grounds were our gateway drug. It showed us the potential of examining a product everyone disregards as having no value and adding value by figuring out all the ways to process it.&rdquo
Orlando’s dried tomato skins Chris Tonnesen
The rethinking of waste has fit into a broader sustainability goal at the restaurant. Since 2015, Amass has partnered, first, with the San Francisco&ndashbased Zero Foodprint and then with the University of Copenhagen to analyze the restaurant&rsquos overall carbon footprint. The results have given Orlando and his staff a path forward.
The analyses taught them, for instance, that lamb&rsquos carbon footprint&mdashbecause, frankly, baby sheep are gassy little devils for their size&mdashis significantly higher than that of pork or even beef, so they stopped serving it. Amass used only 82 nitrous-oxide-charged whipped-cream canisters in a year (some restaurants go through 50 per week), but they accounted for one percent of its total carbon emissions, so those were discontinued too. And fish caught by trawling with industrial-size nets can produce up to 10 times as much carbon-dioxide emissions as line-caught fish, because of the fuel needed to drag the net through the ocean, so Amass ensured its supply comes from lower-impact methods, including fishing with line as well as with gill or seine nets, which capture fewer unintended species. The restaurant cut water usage by collecting all partially full bottles at tables, boiling the water and then using it to irrigate the garden or wash the floors at the end of the night.
The Amass dining room Chris Tonnesen
A fine-dining restaurant produces as much as 25 kilograms of carbon dioxide per guest. Amass, with the team&rsquos efforts, dropped its average from 18 kilos per guest to 12. The restaurant&rsquos hard work and tangible results have earned respect among its peers.
&ldquoThey&rsquoll even do a small thing. Like recently they stopped using plastic wrap, and then you see all of a sudden all these other restaurants are not using plastic wrap anymore,&rdquo says executive chef Andy Doubrava of Michelin-starred Rustic Canyon, a farm-to-table restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif. &ldquoHe&rsquos the trendsetter when it comes to sustainability. And he&rsquos one of the first I saw embrace the no-waste ethos but not in a trendy way. They don&rsquot waste anything, and it&rsquos inspiring because it&rsquos not easy to do that.&rdquo
The strides Amass&rsquos team has made have only fueled Orlando&rsquos ambition. When the beer-loving chef opened his brewery, Broaden & Build, last January, he carved out a space for a test kitchen. It has given Amass&rsquos director of research and development, Kim Wejendorp, a dedicated place to experiment on food waste and develop further sustainable processes for the restaurant and beyond. That commitment drew the attention of Copenhagen bakery Jalm&B.
Japanese knotweed accompanies grilled squid Chris Tonnesen
Hoping to do more with its old bread than make croutons, Jalm&B partnered with Carlsberg brewery&rsquos subsidiary Jacobsen in 2018. Jacobsen brewed a beer with the bakery&rsquos unsold bread, and Jalm&B baked a bread from upcycled hazelnuts the brewery had used in its winter beer. In the wake of the collaboration, the bakery team kept its eyes open for other potential partners.
&ldquoWe&rsquore something in between that small local bakery and an industrial producer,&rdquo says Jalm&B&rsquos marketing manager, Martin Marko Hansen. &ldquoWe&rsquove got a bit more power than a small bakery, but we&rsquore not so big that we are scared of these creative projects. And for us, sustainability is about having only a few ingredients and not all these additives, and we could tell that&rsquos the goal of the team at Amass as well.&rdquo
Hansen, who has a background as a chef, approached Orlando and Wejendorp about working together. Over coffee they batted around a few ideas, none of which seemed quite right. Then Orlando asked, &ldquoHow much bread do you produce every day that you can&rsquot sell and have to throw away?&rdquo Turns out there were often irregular loaves that didn&rsquot fit in the bakery&rsquos bags or didn&rsquot ferment the right way, so they couldn&rsquot be sold. Hansen and team agreed to drop off some old bread at the test kitchen to see what Amass could make of it.
Orlando at work in the Amass kitchen Chris Tonnesen
Orlando and Wejendorp made dessert. Taking a cue from Broaden & Build, they covered the bread with water, then warmed it to the point at which the starches broke down to a liquid sugar. They reduced that, added a little dairy and spun it into an ice cream that, if someone didn&rsquot tell you otherwise, you&rsquod think was flavored with honey, despite having no added sugar.
Hansen wasn&rsquot expecting ice cream, but he was pleasantly surprised. &ldquoI was hoping for the taste of bread, and I got it&mdashit has a really nice malty flavor to it with notes of salt, and you can taste the grains,&rdquo he says. The ice cream also excited Jalm&B&rsquos team because it&rsquos both an upcycled product and a perennial favorite that would connect with the general consumer. &ldquoWe tested it at the  Copenhagen Cooking & Food Festival and got a great response,&rdquo Hansen says. Jalm&B has reached out to Irma, the Copenhagen equivalent of Whole Foods, and he says, &ldquoWe didn&rsquot agree on anything yet, but they&rsquore keen to work with us. And we contacted an ice-cream producer to see how this could be scalable.&rdquo
For Orlando, the ice cream has been a game changer: &ldquoKim and I looked at each other and almost said simultaneously, &lsquoWhat kind of impact could we have if we worked with more large industrial producers?&rsquo&rdquo They could find a big food company, identify a waste stream, then make it into something they could turn around and sell.
Orlando’s pickled green strawberries Chris Tonnesen
&ldquoAs soon as you start talking about finances with these larger companies, all of a sudden their ears perk up,&rdquo Orlando says. &ldquoBut I don&rsquot care if you&rsquore a tree hugger or some large-scale industrial producer&mdashas long as you&rsquore working with us and doing something that has a positive impact on the environment, I don&rsquot care what your intentions are. Sometimes you have to play into people&rsquos materialism to move an agenda forward.&rdquo
Which brings them back to the coffee beans. The Amass test kitchen&rsquos latest trials are at the behest of the Danish government (along with other food companies) to extract any potential protein trapped in the grounds. &ldquoWe have been trying to master these cookies where we replace the flour with milled coffee grounds,&rdquo Orlando says. &ldquoThe technique is there, along with the flavor, but the texture is horrible. We have two of the three parts of the process. That&rsquos enough to keep us going.&rdquo So the chefs continue to test, taste and create food from previously discarded by-products. If they succeed, they&rsquoll not only make great food but get people to embrace a more sustainable mind-set in which, as Orlando tells his team, &ldquoit&rsquos not food waste, it&rsquos food wasted.&rdquo
Copenhagen, 5 years of Amass: interview with chef Matt Orlando
Matt Orlando, from San Diego, California, 41. Since July 2013 he&rsquos patron chef at Amass, in Copenhagen
«There are different reasons why this restaurant differs from other restaurant. One of these is the fact that normally your experience begins once you cross the door. At Amass it starts when you leave home, or your hotel, because arriving here, in this corner of Copenhagen, is a small adventure».
These are the words of Californian Matt Orlando, patron chef at restaurant Amass, which is indeed in a rather secluded part of Copenhagen. It overlooks the lagoon, and is a relatively short distance from the new Noma, hence also not too far from the old location of Renè Redzepi&rsquos old restaurant, where Orlando was sous chef and executive chef.
Amass was opened in July 2013, little under five years ago, by the then executive chef at Noma: «I spent two periods at Noma. First as sous chef. Then my wife &ndash who&rsquos Danish &ndash and I decided to move to New York. After a couple of years, while we were discussing the idea of returning to Copenhagen, René called me, and asked me to return as head chef. I accepted, and said I would guarantee to work for three years, but my plan was to open my own restaurant. Redzepi was as helpful as usual, he supported me all along».
«When we first opened, five years ago, I thought I had a clear idea of what I wanted to do in this restaurant. But then we opened. In boxing gyms there&rsquos a saying: &ldquoEverybody has a plan until they get punched in the face&rdquo. See, the first six months were our punch. After that initial phase, winter came, and we stopped for a while. During that break an idea came that we&rsquore still developing: while speaking with the team, a word came up, &ldquoresponsibility&rdquo. We understood it would be a turning point for what we had in mind».
Potato bread, cream of kale, kale stalks and yogurt, sunflower seed oil
Since Matt Orlando and his team first started to experiment on sustainability, the restaurant production of food waste decreased by 75%. And the research continues: «It&rsquos a very significant result, but what&rsquos most beautiful is that by trying to recuperate food waste, we&rsquove discovered new flavours: for instance, kale stalks, when fermented, dried and powdered, taste like sea weeds. And while initially this research was a prompt for our creativity, today it defines it. We start from food waste. Every dish starts from the idea of using what we call by-products. Only then do we decide which fish to use, which vegetable to pair. It&rsquos like cooking backwards».
White asparagus grilled and marinated in camomile, lobster oil
Snipefish marinated in miso made with the by-products of the beer brewed at the restaurant, green tomatoes in brine, fresh horseradish
At Amass they certainly have fun. And not just those in the kitchen. Guests have even more fun. They might ignore the research behind every dish: if you don&rsquot already know the philosophy behind Orlando&rsquos work, when arriving at the restaurant&rsquos beautiful open-space, when opening the menu, or speaking with the waiters, nothing refers to the goal of sustainability behind every choice made in the kitchen.
Egg yolk cooked at a low temperature, curdle, broth and capers of garlic
Translated into English by Slawka G. Scarso
1432 - Copenhagen
Closed on Sunday and Monday open at lunchtime only on Friday and Saturday
Tasting menu 695 and 995 Danish krone
Tip for Copenhagen: Amass restaurant
The legendary Noma restaurant in Copenhagen has been back in the news since it reopened at the start of 2018. It is still a flagship for New Nordic Cuisine. However, to get a table, you either need the right connections, or you have to be online the minute reservations open in order to secure your table. At the nearby Amass restaurant, making a reservation is somewhat easier. Noma’s former head chef, Matthew Orlando, has been in charge here for the past five years. What he has created is probably one of the most convincing fine-dining concepts I have ever experienced. That applies first and foremost to the food, but the philosophy that the American-born chef puts into practice also achieves the highest levels of perfection.
Matthew Orlando is synonymous with organic food, which he switched to more three years ago. And he thinks about the details: tap water instead of bottled water, but served in beautiful glasses. A wonderful garden that supplies vegetables to the kitchen. “Have you seen this? We’ve got a new greenhouse with fish,” he tells me proudly during my visit. The tomatoes are fertilized with the water used for the fish. Orlando has a flair for creating flavoursome jewels from the vegetables grown in the garden. For example, he serves a chilled, bright green fennel soup with fennel blossom, seasoned with caraway oil, that is far superior to any gazpacho. Or a dish made of roasted beetroot. “We ferment the leaves and stalks, then dry them,” explains Orlando. Then they are ground and blended with oil. Served with blackcurrants and redcurrants from the garden, the beetroot has a depth and freshness I have seldom come across in a vegetable dish.
There is also meat on the menu, but in small quantities. One example is dried lamb heart grated over broad beans. And chicken that simply tastes great. What else did we notice? The service staff are extremely pleasant and friendly. The waterside restaurant has a stylish industrial charm without being over-styled. What’s more, Matthew Orlando constantly adds new details to his menu as part of his aim to tackle food waste. For example, the aperitif was accompanied by light crackers made from the previous day’s bread, dusted with powdered fennel leaves, served with a spicy dip made from potato peel. I could write for hours about the virtues of Amass. But nothing can beat experiencing it for yourself. Sometimes tables are available at short notice. So there’s nothing to stop you from making a gourmet trip to Copenhagen, even if Noma is fully booked.
You’re looking at spots for your next vacation. Are you headed to a beach or to a city or to the mountains? My next vacation is always Copenhagen. – Armand Hirsch
Amass is an exciting eatery found at Refshaleøen, Copenhagen’s cool industrial district. It’s the brainchild of American chef, Matthew Orlando, formerly the chef at Noma, one of Copenhagen’s most critically acclaimed restaurants. Diners can expect the same dedication to impeccable preparation at Amass, but in a much more relaxed and casual atmosphere. The space is fresh and modern, and the walls are covered with graffiti. The menu is simple and only utilizes the freshest ingredients, many of which come straight from the garden in the backyard. It changes periodically and is set by the house. Dishes that have been offered include pork neck with bitter greens and ground elder, and Enoki mushrooms with sweet potato and Nasturtium vinegar. The menu includes six courses and costs 650 DKK per person. An extended menu with nine courses costs 795 DKK, and a wine pairing can be added for 425-625 DKK. Be sure to book ahead of time to ensure a space, and then stop by Amass’ Instagram for a sneak peek of all the fresh Danish cuisine.
Address: Refshalevej 153, 1432 København, Denmark
Phone: +45 43 58 43 30
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Introducing Volume 2: Denmark.
Right now is the most exciting time to dine in the Danish capital. Perhaps the most influential food city in the world, Copenhagen is the birthplace of the New Nordic movement, a cooking philosophy devoted to hyperlocal ingredients and boundless experimentation. Led by Rene Redzepi at Noma, the chefs in the Danish capital are creating a food culture all their own, all while exporting its ethos to countless cities across the globe. In this issue, the country’s great chefs—street vendors and guardians of hallowed centuries-old institutions to young guns and Noma disciples—tell us, through their own words and signature recipes, how Danish dining came into its own and what it’s like to cook in Denmark in 2016.
Volume 2 eats its way through Denmark and brings you stories, photos, and light recipes from the Scandinavian country’s greatest chefs.
In this issue, we hear from:
- Rene Redzepi (Noma, Copenhagen)
- Christian Puglisi (Relae, Copenhagen)
- Matthew Orlando (Amass, Copenhagen)
- Bo Bech (Geist, Copenhagen)
- Frederik Bille Brahe (Atelier September, Copenhagen)
- Rosio Sanchez (Hija de Sanchez, Copenhagen)
- Nicolai Nørregaard (Kadeau, Bornholm)
- Rasmus Kofoed (Geranium, Copenhagen)
- Per Hallundbæk (Falsled Kro, Faldsled)
- John Kofod Pedersen (Sortebro Kro, Odense)
- and more…
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The Irish Cookbook Jp McMahon
Price AUD$65.00 Price CAD$59.95 Price &euro45.00 Price £35.00 Price T49.95 Price USD$49.95
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The Irish Cookbook showcases the true depth of Irish cuisine, its ingredients, and its fascinating history, as never before
Ireland's remarkably rich food heritage dates back millenia and, in The Irish Cookbook, acclaimed chef Jp McMahon captures its unique culinary origins and varied influences. Irish food is the summation of what the land and sea gives the book's 480 home-cooking recipes celebrate the range and quality of Ireland's bounty, from oysters and seaweed on its west coast to beef and lamb from its lush green pastures, to produce and forage from throughout the island. Presenting best-loved traditional dishes together with many lesser-known gems, this book vividly evokes the warmth, hospitality, and culinary spirit of the Emerald Isle.
- Format: Hardback
- Size: 270 x 180 mm (10 5/8 x 7 1/8 in)
- Pages: 432 pp
- Illustrations: 150 illustrations
- ISBN: 9781838660567
Jp McMahon is a chef, restaurateur, and author. He is culinary director of the EatGalway Restaurant Group and runs the Aniar Boutique Cookery School. Founding chair and director of the Galway Food Festival, Jp is an ambassador for Irish food. He organises an annual international chef symposium entitled &lsquoFood on the Edge' in Galway and writes a weekly column for the Irish Times.
"[Jp]'s one of the hotshot international chefs these days. This book should be the book of the season. That's cuz he's cool as cool can be. Ireland is the new Nordic."&mdashKevin Kent, author of the Knife Nerd Guide To Japanese Knives
"The Irish Cookbook inspires at the hands of renowned chef JP McMahon. and celebrates the unique culinary culture of the islands and the roots of its hearty flavours and warm hospitality."&mdashForbes
"This is a hefty refutation of any lingering sense that food culture away from the mainland of Europe is about assembling as many beige and brown items as possible and encasing them in pastry. 480 recipes which showcase the extraordinary produce found across the island of Ireland, from oysters and fish to beef and lamb, as well as pointing out all sorts of bits and pieces that can be easily foraged."&mdashEsquire
"A monumental tome on Irish cuisine."&mdashFood & Wine
"Explores Ireland's storied culinary heritage through 480 beautifully shot recipes. Taste your way from the wave pounded fishing villages of the west coast to the misty mountains of the Sperrins Region. "&mdashFood & Travel
"Confident, varied and often sophisticated. In The Irish Cookbook, Mr McMahon presents an Ireland that is wild and ancient, but also cosmopolitan and pragmatic."&mdashMr Porter
"With an eye on terrain, McMahon offers both authentic and innovative approaches to modern Irish cooking."&mdashPublishers Weekly
"The new story of Irish food."&mdashThe Irish Times
"The weighty collection investigates the 'peasant tradition' presumption, explores historical and contemporary cooking (McMahon went deep into Irish recipe archives), and champions the produce Ireland naturally offers up."&mdashThe Irish Examiner
"A Magnum Opus from restauranteur Jp McMahon. Beautifully researched, the book examines how Irish geography and identity come together in the country's food."&mdashDelicious magazine
"Few nations do comfort food as well as the Irish. Simplicity itself and eating it, as comforting as a cuddle. That said, The Irish Cookbook is about much more than the dishes we all (think we) know and love - its a celebration of the country's amazing food heritage going back to hunter-gatherer settlements 10,000 years ago."&mdashBBC Good Food
"St Patrick's Day is coming – celebrate with Jp McMahon's revived classics, with not a spud in sight."&mdashSunday Times, Magazine
"This book is packed with compelling stories and fascinating information. Think of it as a course on Irish cuisine, told by a serious chef."&mdashBoston Globe
"[A] thoroughly researched cookbook. I have a newfound appreciation for a cuisine famously scorned. [T]he history buff, the Irishman, or someone with a particular affinity for seafood should definitely look to The Irish Cookbook."&mdashEpicurious
"Showcase[s] the island's range and bounty of dishes inspired by the sea, the pastures and the forests."&mdashThe Globe and Mail
"Beautifully evocative and comprehensive. Jp McMahon has written what could well be the definitive book on his homeland's cuisine."&mdashThe Sunday Times
Matthew Orlando on Copenhagen's Amass - Recipes
We are a group of restaurateurs, scholars, and friends primarily based in Copenhagen. We have been lending an ear and sharing advice to help each other navigate through these uncertain times.
We strongly believe that cooperation, altruism, and the sharing of ideas and resources will provide a way forward for the culinary community in the face of the current crisis and into the future.
Bowline was originally set in motion by:
Christian Nedergaard, Ved Stranden 10
Eric Guthey, Copenhagen Business School
Kamilla Seidler, Lola
Marin Lysak, University of Copenhagen
Matthew Orlando, Amass
Nick Curtin, Alouette
Vaughn Tan, University College London
Collaborators and contributors include:
Alex Klinge, Copenhagen Business School
Anne-Birgitte Agger, Hotel og Restaurant Skole
Christer Bredgaard, Il Buco and La Banchina
Claus Liljeberg, Financial Advisor
Daniel Hardt, Copenhagen Business School
Pelle Andersen, FOOD Organization of Denmark
Geet Khosla, Entrepreneur and Advisor
Henriettte Laursen, KVINFO
Jakob Gaard Nielsen, Lola
Jan Bauer, Copenhagen Business School
Johanne Schwimming, Hegnsholt
Lisa Abend, Freelance Journalist
Luca Pasquali, Copenhagen Business School
Mette Strarup, Loui
Mikala Kofoed Rasmussen, Wonderful Copenhagen
Mikkel Westergaard, Hart Bageri
Nicole Ferry, Copenhagen Business School
Rasmus Johnsen, Copenhagen Business School
Sarah Louise Muhr, Copenhagen Business School
Stephanie Clement, Copenhagen Business School
Stine Bang, Geist
Tina Unger, Lejre Kommune
Trine Hahnemann, Hahnemanns
Victoria Parker, Copenhagen Business School
Matt Orlando's Amass Opens Its Doors in Copenhagen
Behold the scene of the very first dinner service at Amass, the new Copenhagen restaurant from ex-Noma head chef Matt Orlando. Anticipation has been building big-time for this newcomer from the moment the first details were revealed, through the past few months as the restaurant began its buildout, and opened up its reservation books. In fact, AOK reports that Amass has "the largest international interest in a new Danish restaurant ever" based on booking statistics from Danish online portal DinnerBooking. Most of these guests are from New York, London and Mexico, according to the article, which also explains that Orlando "is the chef who is going to be on everyone's lips in the future."
And some of those lips belong to world-class chefs from Copenhagen to London to New York and beyond. Chef such as David Chang, Dan Felder, Thomas Sellers, Bryan Voltaggio, Sat Bains, and Orlando's old boss René Redzepi have taken to Twitter to wish Amass a good first service. And Redzepi makes a pretty big call in his tweet, writing, "HELLO - follow Matt and wife Julie as they ride the lighting @AmassRestaurant - could be the opening of the year in Europe."
Just a refresher for those who have yet to secure their Amass reservations, the restaurant offers a menu for 575 dkk ($101) with a wine pairing option of 375 dkk ($66). There's also a smaller menu available at lunch. For the adventurous, there's a communal table in the center of the dining room that seats 10 people. Stay tuned for more in the coming days and weeks.